Post #___: Expedient masks, part 4: My niche.

Source: 3M

You can find numerous plans for sewing a mask. I’ll present one below, from Instructables, that I like for its simplicity and efficiency.  And for the fact that I see that other like-minded people also point to that design.

And I do, in fact sew.  I own a sewing machine.  And I do … big stuff:  slip covers, drapes, and so on.

Which, if you really know sewing, gives away the fact that I’m not good at it.  I could not set a zipper if my life depended on it.  I think Velcro (R) is God’s gift to  mankind the ham-handed.

And I now am hearing that a lot of people that don’t sew.  Doesn’t surprise me, really.  But we have an army of unemployed people.  So I’m making it my mission to help the sewing-challenged.

This is America, folks.  Think Apollo 13.  Have you never asked yourself, why in the world did NASA sent a roll of duct tape to the moon?  Can you even conceive of what it cost to do that?  And they planned on bringing it back?  They can eject an entire Saturn V first stage to self-destruct in the atmosphere, but the friggin’ duct tape had do be able to make the entire round trip?  Do you have any notion of what it takes to get a pound of material to the moon and back?  (Let alone a kilogram, which is why America had the best space program, right?)

I digress.  Got duct tape?

My role for the next few days is to put together a few high-protection masks, for the maskless, with minimal sewing.  Duct tape, 3M products, furnace filters, and such like.  Because, if you’ve been around, you know that if it’s 3M, it does what it says it does.  May not be the cheapest, but clearly the best.  This is no time to screw around with generics.

So this is the mask blog for rednecks.  Or maybe old rednecks.  If you don’t sew, but still occasionally refer to the big hardware store at Fairfax Circle as Hechinger’s, you’ve probably found the right place.

If mainstream America has the comfy fabric-store masks, what you’re going to get here is your basic hardware-store mask.  I aspire to channel Hyneman and Savage for the next couple of days.  WWMG What would MacGyver do.

But with the serious and ultimate goal of producing an N95-equivalent mask. 

Trust me, if you want comfortable masks, go with something that somebody sews.  So this may or may not be the most effective source for mask plans.  The best mask is the one that you’ll wear.

But if you’re among the paranoid — and, seriously, that’s hard even to define these days — even the most nervous of nervous Nellies would accept an N95-equivalent. Even if it’s ugly, and really not a lot of fun to wear.  And maybe then they’d leave the real ones for the pros who need them.

So I’m going to do non-sewn masks.  That’s what I see as the unfilled market niche.  These will not be as comfortable as sewn cloth masks.  They are going to be every bit as much of a pain in the … face as real masks.  But they are going to be a lot more scientific.

Tomorrow’s task is to replicate a 3M 8511 mask, from MERV-rated cloth and … not sure what else.

Got any good ideas, within what I have outlined above?  Email me:  chogan@directresearch.com

Post script:

Here’s what I believe to be the best sewn mask I’ve come across so far.  FWIW.  When I saw another MERV-mask maker mention this, I knew it was the right design.  Note that she has a design with a pocket for a filter.  So, if you have a high MERV filter at home, you could plausibly get the best of both worlds with this.  I find this an admirable design due to its simplicity, depth of face coverage, and attention to critical details like the nosepiece.  If you don’t have elastic at hand, think something like kitchen cotton twine would probably work.

Source:  Image used without permission, for which I apologize.

  • Mask 2:  DIY Cloth Face Mask.  By
  • Cloth:  Tightly woven cotton or cotton/poly.  Cotton recommended.
  • Layers:  2
  • Ties:  Elastic, over ears.
  • Metal noisepiece:  Yes, continuous wire, sewn in, floral wire or other thin wire.
  • Design:  Single piece of cloth with elastic feed through “drawstring”-type channels at side.
  • Methods/skill level:  Knowledgeable craft sewer.
  • Steps:  14
  • Number made:  73
  • Interesting quote:  “Surgical masks and some cloth masks will block 7 micron particles.”

Post #595: Expedient masks, part 3: Expedient mask prototype

Rapid conversion of dust masks to MERV-8, proof of concept.

 

I just heard that the Mayor of Los Angeles has asked everyone to wear masks in public.  So, now more than ever, we need effective masks for everyone.  I reviewed what’s for sale, and a) it ain’t much, and b) likely, most of it is gone by now.

Just breaking:  Looks like the CDC is finally going to issue guidance to wear masks in public.  Thank goodness.  I’ve just been told that Laredo, Texas will now fine people for being in public without a face covering.

Maybe the Army Corps of Engineers can produce and distribute a few optimized mask designs, with the idea that its within their mandate as sort of reverse Roemer’s Law.  A bed not filled is a bed not built.


In Post # 593, I showed the key tables from a scholarly article on home-made respiratory masks.  That analysis looked at the air-filtering properties of various types of cloth.  And, in fact, you could achieve particle filtration equivalent to a surgical mask, merely by using two layers of tightly-woven a tea towel.  But that two-tea-towel mask would have generated much higher back-pressure than a surgical mask (i.e., hard to move air through it).  That would have resulted in moving a lot of air around the mask (at the edges), rather than through the mask.  So, likely, you’d end up inhaling significant amounts of unfiltered air.

Return to Post #593 for the discussion MERV standards for air filters.  There was a reason I included that.  Some people (and other people) (and even some doctors) (and some nurses) have already come to the conclusion that the obvious material for home-made masks is the fabric inside of furnace air filters.

At the end of this, I’m going to make something that I think is obvious.  Take a dust mask — one with no guarantee of filtration at all — and tape a piece of MERV-8 cloth over it.  That should provide excellent protection against droplet transmission.  The shape of the face seal is formed by the factory-made dust mask, and is far better than I could achieve by hand.  The filtration is performed by the MERV-8 material, which should be adequate for droplet protection.  It uses a minimal amount of the MERV material.  I believe I could get this down to maybe — well certainly under 5 minutes a mask.  And if I can swap out MERV-16 for MERV-8 and still breathe through it, the same techniques would allow me to mass-produce N95-equivalent masks.

Seriously, I think this is a way to help solve America’s current shortage of masks for the public.  So this is my last plea:  If you know someone in a position of responsibility, please pass this along.  Because this way, not only do you have a mask that protects others.  This way, if I up the MERV level, you have a mask that protects you.  Using filtering materials that are outside the hospital supply chain. 

And if you can suggest ways to do this better, or have an idea for a better design using MERV-rated furnace filters, email me (chogan@directresearch.com).

Let me now list the advantages of the MERV-based mask.

  1. It has a known level of filtration, the MERV rating.  With cloth, you have to guess.
  2. You can achieve a N95 level of filtration with a (rare) MERV-16 filter.  This would provide protection against aerosol (airborne) transmission.
  3. You can filter out some small droplets with a MERV-8 or higher.  This would provide protection against droplet transmission.  You can get almost all of them with a MERV-13 or so.
  4. Most American homes have some supply of these in the basement, so there is a large supply of this material readily available and already distributed to homes.
  5. The only tool required to extract the cloth from filters and work it into shape is a set of common household shears.
  6. The MERV-8 cloth is easy to work with (well, sort of), if somewhat fragile.
  7. FWIW, except for Filtrete (R) filters, I believe that the material in MERV-rated furnace filters is in fact melt-blown cloth, the same stuff that is in masks.

And so, while I could talk about how to sew a cloth mask, for that, I think I’ll just just put that off, for the time being.  At some point, that will come back into play, because I would need sewn bodies for my MERV-based masks.  But for now, let me just convert a dust mask that I have, and see how that works out.

I’m not even going to review MERV.  Refer back to Post #593 if you want to brush up on it.  For now, you’ll just have to take me at my word that MERV-16 requires 95% removal of particles down to 0.3 microns, in one pass.  Just line N95.  And we can work backwards from there.

For the record, I know MERV-8 ain’t great.  You can see the specs here.  But its what I happen to have.  MERV-8 only guarantees to trap 70% of particles between 3 and 10 microns in size.  And only 20% of those those 1 to 3 microns.  (Aerosols are those 5 microns and below).  But a MIRV-12 — readily available for home use, traps a minimum 90% and 80%, respectively.  And, you can double up the fabric, get two passes, and presumably raise those to something like 99% and 96%, respectively.

(And MERV-16 is basically the same spec as N95:  It gets 95% of particles down to 0.3 microns.  But I just got my hands on a MERV-16 filter, and I don’t think I could breathe through the material..)

So this is a proof of concept.  I.e., I’m wrecking a relatively low-valued MERV-8 filter.  Once I’ve fine-tuned this, I’ll move up the MERV scale.


Section 1:  Converting a MERV-8 pleated filter, and common dust mask, to a MERV-8 mask.

You’re going to take a standard home air filter, MERV-8, cut it out of its casing, leave the wire backing in place, cut out a rectangle, mold it around a common dust mask, trim and tape in place overtop the dust mask.  Then replace the elastic with something more substantial.

Tools and materials:

  1. MERV-8 or better home air filter
  2. Kitchen shears, large scissors or similar
  3. Sharp razor blade (optional)
  4. Packing tape, duct tape, Gorilla (R) tape, or similar.
  5. Piece of cord (shoelace, parachute cord, kitchen twine, garden twine).

1  Remove the filter from the cardboard casing, taking care not to damage the fabric.

You can’t peel them out without damaging them.  I learned that the hard way.  Take a pair of scissors and cut them out, cutting right through the metal mesh on the back.

On mine, the carboard on the face was randomly glued to the fabric.  Don’t pull that off.  For now, just cut around it, leaving chunks of cardboard on the fabric surface.  You can cut them down later, and either leave them or carefully get them off the fabric with a sharp razor blade.

Step 2:  Roughly flatten the fabric and wire assembly.

Leave the wire mesh attached.  I tried removing the fabric from the wire, but a) it was tedious and b) being as careful as I could be, I was still damaging the fabric.  I would prefer to work with the fabric alone, but that’s not gonna happen.

Step 3:  Cut roughly to size.

Carefully roll the mask in one direction, mark, then roll it in the other dirction, and mark.  Give yourself maybe a half-inch seam allowance all the way around.

Step 4:  Roughly shape the filter material by wrapping it round one fist.

Check for fit against the mask shape.  Fine-tune as needed.   Avoid creating “folds” in the material, to the extent possible.  I have a large fold at the bridge of the nose that may, to small degree, compromise the filtering, but … when I look at it, it’s not obvious that it does.

Once you are comfortable with the fit, trim the excess.  It’s OK to be a bit sloppy because you’re going to cover the joint between the two materials with plastic tape in the next step.

Step 5:  Attach the filter material to the dust mask.

Lay down a ring of tape on the mask seal.  This is just small pieces of high-quality tape.  It’s important that these overlap a bit, because these are going to become, in effect, the new mask seal.

Lay the dust mask into the shaped filter/mesh assembly, start in one place, and tape it all around.  When you are done, take a couple of strips of tape about 1″ wide, and just tape your way around the circumference of the mask.  Just to stabilize it, and make sure it sticks.

Step 5:  Replace the elastic with a cord of some sort.

Knot the cord, tape it to the mask.

6:  Put it on on, bend to adjust fit as necessary, and tie tightly.

Time and materials summary:

This entire process took me an hour, and left me with enough MIRV-8 material to make, looks like, maybe another 7 or 8 masks, with a lot of waste (because the mask min dimension is just over half the MERV-8 sheet that I got from my 14 x 30 x 1 filters.

Performance:  Yeah, it works.

I’ve been wearing this for an hour now, and it’s hot, uncomfortable, and it stinks a bit of plastic..  Which is to say, behaves like just about every other face mask.

I was worried that I would compromise the mask seal, but I don’t think I did.  For one thing, my glasses aren’t fogging up.  I don’t notice any leaks with a wet finger held near the edge (and sharp exhalations).  And, when I exhale, I can feel my hot breath diffuse out the lower part of the mask.  I want it going through the mask, not around the mask.

Back pressure is fine.  Not at all hard to breath, despite narrowing the breathable area somewhat with the plastic tape  .As it should.

The plastic tape is a little itchy, and I can feel a couple of the seams.  But I actually think the plastic tape, the overall metal mesh, and heavy-duty tie, in total, results in a pretty good seal against my face.

Tomorrow I’m going to review what other MERV masks are out there, and either improve this one, or build one of a different design.

And keep in mind, there is no obvious barrier to do this with MIRV-16 material.  The only real hitch there is that few domestic furnaces or air cleaners use MIRV-16.  And MIRV-16 — at least in terms of the specification — matches N95 for capture of 0.3 micro particles, and such.

I, Christopher Hogan, PhD., place this posting entirely in the public domain.

 

Post #594: Expedient masks, part 2: What can you buy

Source:  Amazon.com


As our Federal government stumbles toward a public mask policy at a glacial pace and with off-the-cuff advice, let’s see if we, the people, can get ahead of the game on this one.

The just-prior post already established that a reasonable home-made mask will do just fine for protecting others.  This next series of posts is about protecting yourself.  

And this post is about what you can buy, right now.  Its about expedient masks, meaning anything you can buy or make to serve as a face mask, that would (we hope) never be used by health care workers.  Anything other than real medical masks — either N95 (or equivalent hardware-store P95) or proper, certified surgical masks — such as might be used in a hospital.

Upshot:

If you want to buy a plausibly-effective sanitary mask, right now, for wearing in public, it looks like your sole option is disposable “surgical” masks bought through Ebay.  As discussed below, these are not actually proper certified surgical masks, and some of them are in fact simple “single-use” masks, as described in my just-prior post.  You can order the same thing through Amazon, but typical wait times are about a month.  I list out the features you want to see in those masks, if you buy them, below.

Caveat emptor:  I just looked at Ebay, and there are clearly a lot of unscrupulous sellers, and a general air of on-line panic shopping.  If you absolutely have a need for these, consider it.  But be aware that you may well be wasting your money.

In addition, anybody who is in the business of throwing away N95 or P95 masks (respirators) should read this analysis of how long an N95 may be re-used.  The answer is, putting aside the issue of sterilization, a long, long time.  Which is good, because (e.g.) the screeners at Dulles Airport have been asked to re-use their masks on a permanent basis.  So, even if you don’t re-use them now, it’s probably time to start separating them from the rest of the waste stream and retaining them.


What’s off-limits, what’s available on Amazon

This post is about masks that you can buy, right now.  And, separately, how you might modify them to improve their filtration capabilities.  I’m not going to spend a lot of time on this, because I suspect that when CDC issues guidance that Americans should wear masks when in public, anything for sale will disappear from the shelves.

I am sticking with Amazon, for the time being, because they appear to be doing things responsibly, as discussed below.  As I read it, right now, if you see it for sale to the general public on Amazon, that’s because it’s not needed by the US health care system.  That is not uniformly true of places like Ebay.  So I’m only going to look at items that are for sale on Amazon.  I may check availability of those same items on Ebay.  Clear enough?

I spent some time explaining the technical jargon in the last post, so I am going to feel free to use those terms around here without explanation.  Just refer the last post.

But this is not about protecting yourself, at the expense of the health-care workers.  In my last post, I explained why hospital workers need N95 masks and you don’t, under the section on aerosol transmission of disease.  So let me list not just the things you can buy, but the things you shouldn’t buy.


N95, P95, P99, P100:  NO. 

Source:  Wikipedia

If you stumble across anything rated N95 or P95 or better, just leave it alone, unless you plan to purchase it for donation to your local hospital or fire and rescue unit.  You should not be able to find these for sale now, but that’s only because responsible companies have withdrawn them.  (See Home Depot in just-prior post.  I don’t think the Federal government has taken any action to make the sale of these (to other than medical/fire/rescue providers) illegal. This class includes not only classic N95 “masks” as above, but (e.g.) anything like the P100 paint respirator pictured at the very top of this posting.

Again, you don’t need it.  Health care workers and fire and rescue units are going to need them.  See my prior post on why health care workers need them, and you don’t.


Surgical masks certified for medical use:  NO.

Source:  Wikipedia.

I’m not sure if you can find proper certified surgical masks for sale or not, but ditto the remarks above on N95s.  Leave them for health care workers.  Please see the prior post for a discussion of the difference between single-use masks and surgical masks, and the filtration standards.

Note that several large-scale controlled clinical trials show that surgical masks are just as good as N95 respirators at preventing flu infection among hospital workers.  An excellent summary is here, at Smart Air.  So, in a pinch, you bet hospital workers would use those if N95 respirators are not available.

Read my just-prior post for the difference between certified surgical masks, and “single-use” masks, which you can buy, and which are not critical to the US health care system right now.


Things that look like surgical masks but are not certified for medical use, available on Amazon, and are probably “single-use masks”, not surgical masks (defined below):  I would say, yeah, for now, probably YES. 

Wait times are long (typically one month) on Amazon, but this same sort of produce appears widely available (for now) on Ebay with short delivery times promised.

Source:  Amazon

What makes me say that?  Amazon is one of the responsible vendors who have pulled all masks that can be used by medical personnel and first responders.  Anything like that, their pages now have this wording:

Available only for hospitals and government agencies directly responding to COVID-19

For example, Amazon has withdrawn not only N95 respirators, but high-quality nuisance dust masks as well.  They have withdrawn surgical masks that appear to be certified for medical use.  (Note that those masks list their actual filtration rates, whereas the ones that remain for sale do not.)  To me, that suggests that they really have gone through their inventory and pulled out anything that would be useful to medical providers or first responders.

I have to infer, then, that if Amazon doesn’t say that, then there has been some professional judgment that the item in question is not needed by health care workers.  I am not 100% sure about that, but at some point, I have to believe that Amazon knows its business, and has done the right thing, and has stopped sale of all items that would be useful to health care workers (as Home Depot has done.)

An incredibly helpful and succinct discussion of single-use masks, surgical masks, and N95 respirators, along with considerable other helpful information (e.g., can you wash disposable masks) can be found at Smart Air.  If you want to get up to speed on what’s what, for actual medical supplies, that’s the place to start.

So, provisionally, I’m going to say, despite some misgivings, these are probably OK to buy.  I’m guessing that most of them are, in fact, “single-use masks” and not surgical masks.  If (note, if) those were manufactured to any standard, it would be a Chinese standard, and they would be able to filter out 95% of large aerosol droplets (3 microns), but would not filter something the size of a virus.  Proper surgical masks, by contrast, will filter out virus-sized particles.  Again, see Smart Air for a discussion of mask standards.

Even though these are not certified, and some appear to be poorly made, many of them do appear to have the right construction:

  • Three-ply construction, with
  • A layer of melt-blown fabric, and
  • A metal strip at the bridge of the nose.

To the extent that these are fairly good at filtering the air, that’s due to the melt-blown fabric and the nose piece.  See prior post for “melt-blown fabric”.  (You don’t know the quality/specs on the melt-blown fabric, but at least it has some, suggesting that it has filtering ability above-and-beyond what you’d get from just paper.) The nose piece is required to seal up what would otherwise be the largest air leak for the mask, right at the bridge of the nose.

Finally, multiple large-scale controlled clinical trials have shown that proper, certified surgical masks (not single-use masks) work just as well as N95 respirators at keeping hospital workers from catching the flu.  (Cite Smart Air). Whether or not whatever-these-are on Amazon — single-use masks or possibly uncertified surgical masks — would work as well as certified surgical masks is a complete unknown.  For sure, single-layer single-use masks, even if they were built to the Chinese standard, have no ability to filter virus-sized particles.  They would not have the filtration capacity of a certified surgical mask.

Check the delivery time before you buy.   The main catch here is delivery time.  That nice-looking white mask above?  I searched “face mask”, sorted by descending customer rating, and checked the earliest promised delivery time for the first 20 entries.  Median earliest promised delivery date was 26 days.  Three entries promised delivery within six days.  Two of those were of such low quality (by description and customer comments) that I doubt they would work.  The third was priced at about three times the going rate for masks.

The upshot on delivery is that a) for the typical product, it’s going to take a month, and b) anything promised for near-term delivery is either too poor to be useful, or (in one case) priced at several multiples of the going rate.

I re-sorted by descending price, and spot checked.  Even for very large orders (e.g., 1000 masks) first promised delivery dates were about a month away.

To summarize:  It appears that Amazon has stopped selling anything that has been judged useful to the medical or first-response sectors.  The only safe thing is to assume that whatever you are seeing on Amazon, at best, meets the Chinese standard for filtration for single-use masks.  If so, those would provide significant filtration against droplets, but limited filtration against aerosols and virus particles.  (I.e., they aren’t as good as real surgical masks).  Some of the disposable masks appear to have proper construction, per bullet points above.  If so, you could reasonably assume that wearing them would offer you some protection, but that is just an assumption.  The best of these have melt-blown fabric (the “filter” portion of a certified surgical mask), but you have no way of knowing what type of melt-blown fabric it is (i.e., how well it would filter air).  Even with that, you should expect about a one-month wait time for anything that looks worth buying, or feed the occasional price gouger who is promising an earlier delivery time.

Can you get them now, on Ebay?  Yes, that appears to be true.  If you go that route, look for three-ply construction, metal nosepiece, melt-blown fabric, and some claim as to bacterial filtration.  You have no idea whether the claim is right or not, but so be it.  A fair price appears to be in the range of $0.70/mask or so, in large lots.


Fabric sports masks:  YES, if you are wiling to modify it.  What you can routinely get does not appear very effective as a protective mask, because these are designed to “breathe”.  If you can sew, you can add a lining.  If not, you can try to add a paper lining.  You will definitely want to add a wire nosepiece to provide a tight fit across the bridge of the nose.

Source:  Amazon

At present, everybody says that any type of fabric mask is OK. Masks like that are frequently sold as pollen/pollution masks for outdoor exercise.  Amazon has a wide range of them. Most (perhaps all) are really not adequate for this task, consisting of a single layer of cloth.  Because these are exercise masks, they are made to “breathe”, which is what you don’t want, right now.

At the minimum, you’d have to line these with something.  Practically speaking, I think you’d have to resort to lining these with paper towels.  That provides some protection, but not much (see prior post, last section).  You would also want to take a bit of wire and either duct-tape it to the mask, or thread it through the mask, to provide a metal nosepiece for sealing the mask to your face at the bridge of your nose.

And, as with the disposable masks above, most have one-to-two-month shipping times.  I saw a handful with promised delivery times of a couple of weeks.  Weirdly, I did not find these on Ebay.  Maybe I just didn’t have the right search terms.

I’m not going to pursue these any further.


“PM2.5 masks”:  Eh, I’m not even sure what this means.

Source:  Amazon

There is a huge range of masks — some hard-surfaced, as the one above, some fabric, some hybrid — that are sold as anti-air-pollution masks.  That is, they claim to filter out particulate matter of 2.5 microns in size (PM 2.5).

Near as I can tell, as discussed in my prior post, there are no standards and there is no testing of these masks.  Some probably work.  Some probably don’t.  I have no way to tell.  I’m not going to discuss these further.  The few that I checked appeared to have delivery days 6 weeks away or so.

Caveat emptor.


Various loose-fitting masks and bandanas.  These protect others, a bit, but the lack of any seal means they provide very limited protection to you.

Source:  Amazon

And, of course, even these have promised delivery dates 6 weeks out.  These are single-layer loose-fitting cloth mouth coverings.  Better than nothing, but probably not as good as just pulling your t-shirt up so it covers you nose and mouth.  I don’t see value here.


Etsy hand-sewn cloth masks.

I did not pursue this option, but I would assume that some are available.


My next posts will discuss making masks.


Post #593: Expedient masks, part 1, background.

Source:  Amazon.com

 

The bottom line of this posting is that, yes, home made masks work to block much of your potential for transmitting disease to others.  Wear a real medical mask if you own one.  Buy (and potentially improve) a non-medical one if you don’t.  Or make one from scratch.  Even paper towels have some efficacy in filtering the air.

This post is really just background.  If you already know that you need to wear a mask, there is no need to read this.  Next post will be about what you can still buy, for now.  Final post will be on making them.


Background

The drumbeat in favor of universal mask use outside the home is getting louder. Some people figured this out sooner than others.  I finally wised up less than a week ago, and did my 3/27/2020 grocery shopping masked.  And every time I enter a public place from now on, I’m wearing a mask.

That said, you can see a summary of the achingly slow progress on this front in this Washington Post article.

So, unless spectacular stupidity triumphs, you will soon have official guidance from the CDC that you ought to wear a mask in public.  I’ve already written down what I would use as the official rules, FWIW (Post #589).  I’ve now posted a comment on the Whole Foods Facebook page, asking them to consider some form of “no mask, no service” policy.

Everybody who is smart, ethical, or both is withholding N95 respirators from the general public.  AKA, the best masks.  Those need to be kept for health care providers.   Here’s Home Depot’s policy.

Executed a "Stop-Sale" on all N95 masks in stores and HomeDepot.com and redirected all shipments to be donated to hospitals, healthcare providers and first responders around the country

I highlight Home Depot because that’s the first place I detected panic buying/hoarding behavior, back in Post #535. Even if they were too late to stop that, they have had the good sense not to restock.

My point is that mask use is coming.  You can’t buy the ones that protect you with some security (if they are properly fitted).  What can you do?  What are your options for an expedient mask?  What is your best expedient mask choice?  Adapt what you have?  Buy?  Buy and modify?  Make from scratch?

From the standpoint of not infecting others, it’s all good, pretty much.  Any mask beats no mask, hands down.  When you talk, and even to a small extent when you breath, you emit tiny droplets (discussed at length in Post #573, Post #585). Droplet transmission of disease is believed to be the primary way in which the infection is spread.  Any sort of substantial cloth barrier over your face will reduce the spread of those droplets significantly, both by catching some, and by reducing the velocity/range of others, as the mask slows the velocity of your breath.  (See wet finger whistle test in Post #589 to prove this to yourself.)

See this reference for a scholarly look at the ability of home-made masks to stop spread of disease.  But please note that they used the wrong cloth (cotton t-shirts) — nobody recommends that.  They concluded that homemade masks aren’t as good as surgical masks, but they are much better than nothing.  I’ll get into that paper in detail, at the end of this posting.

So the only thing to discuss, really, is how you can get some sort of mask, and then, how well can you expect that mask to protect you.  This assumes you are smart enough to do everything the CDC already says, and in addition, minimize your trips to enclosed public spaces, and the time you spend there, on those trips.

While you can buy some type of (e.g.) cloth face mask now, well, by this time we all know the drill.  The supply chain is set up to deliver product only at the rate at which it is used.  As soon as the CDC says “wear a mask of any sort”, it’s a fair bet that what’s currently for sale will get hoovered up.

So, for most of you who don’t have a mask, I’m afraid this is going to turn into a DIY project.  Or, having your neighbors make one for you.

So I thought that what I might do is offer a kind of mask tutorial.  This is mostly by way of helping me get my thoughts together on whether or not I could build a high-quality expedient mask from available materials.  Anybody can make a mask.  The question is, can I make a good mask, in quantity.

This is part 1:  Background.  Part 2 will be, what can you buy (for now) and modify.  Part 3 will be, what can you make from scratch.


Step1:  What are we talking about?  Definition of N95, PM2.5, MERV, HEPA, and so on.

I’m kind of tired of writing, at this point, so this will largely be done without citation as to sources.  I’m just summarizing things here that I have duly cited in earlier posts, mostly. New information will be cited as needed.

Aerosol versus droplet transmission

Micron (micrometer):  One millionth of a meter.  1000 nanometers.  Droplets from a sneeze range from under about one micron to hundreds of microns.

Nanometer: One billionth of a meter. The diameter of an individual coronavirus particle is around 120 nanometers (Wikipedia).  An obsolete term for it is “millimicron” or “millimicrometer”.

Aerosol versus droplet transmission.  Here’s a key distinction.  Conventionally, anything under 5 microns is an “aerosol”, meaning, it will stay suspended in the air and float around on air currents.  See Post #585.  Particles that size are far too small to be seen. When professionals talk about “airborne transmission”, then mean transmission of the disease in this fashion. If you inhale enough of them, from an infected person, and they land in the right place in your respiratory tract, you get infected.

Studies of influenza showed that aerosol particles were quite potent at spreading lower respiratory tract infections.  It takes less total volume of virus to cause an inflection of you aerosolize it, versus leaving it in larger droplets.  The reason is that if you inhale these tiny droplets, they have the ability to penetrate far into the lungs.  (This same ability is what makes very fine particulates from (say) diesel exhaust particularly harmful air pollution).  And, for SARS (currently SARS-CoV-2 aka COVID-19), that’s where this virus wants to be.  So aerosols put the virus directly into its most favorable habitat within the human body.

Sneezing and coughing produce some aerosol-sized droplets.  But, surprising, just breathing produces a few.  Talking produces them at a rate somewhat less than coughing (but you talk a lot more than you cough, so total production can easily be the same, when integrated over time).  The louder you talk, the more aerosols you produce.  And singing is easily the equivalent of coughing, in terms of the rate of aerosol production.

One fact you need to know is that, for aerosols, some people are “superemitters”.  They produce orders-of-magnitude more aerosol than the average person.  And it’s not really all that rare, but I’m not going to stop and look that up right now.  My recollection is that in any group of 100, you are more than likely to find a few.

And so, likely that event that I wrote about — 45 persons of a 60 person choir got COVID-19, after a single carefully-done practice — it’s a very good guess that this was the result of aerosol transmission of disease by an infected superemitter.

That said, I need to be clear here, because this is now a hot topic:  As far as anyone knows, aerosol transmission of this disease is rare outside the hospital setting.  How do they know?  Well, they think they know that because of what they think they know of the epidemiology of it. If aerosol transmission were common, you probably wouldn’t be able to trace cases back and figure out how they got infected.  Because they think they can do that tracing, and they find that most transmission (that they can trace) appears to occur when people are symptomatic (i.e., coughing), they infer that most transmission is, in fact, droplet transmission, not aerosol.

Let us each now solemnly pray to our respective God or Gods that they are correct, and not just kidding themselves.

The situation in a hospital is different, though.  There, you can get instances where the concentration of aerosol particles is high enough, and exposure times are long enough, that people can get sick literally by simply breathing the same air as the patient.  You’ve got a combination of a very sick patient (so, high virus shedding rate), in a small room (so that person can build up high density of aerosol per cubic foot), and you have health care personnel who spend considerable time in that tainted air.

The non-negligible potential for aerosol transmission in that setting is one of the reasons that health care practitioners need N95 masks.  I’ll get to the definition of N95 below.

By contrast, health professionals use the term “droplets” to mean drops larger than 5 microns.  To a greater or lesser degree, these settle out of the atmosphere fairly quickly.  (Or, at least, that’s the conventional wisdom).  But, if you inhale them, or they land on you in the right place (in your mouth, eyes, nose), or they land on a surface that you touch and then touch your face (mouth, eyes, nose), they can infect you.

You produce droplets by sneezing or coughing, but you also produce them by talking.  (And, because we talk a lot more than we cough, arguably, at small droplet sizes, we’re producing more in total by talking.  Which is among the reasons I called for us all to shut up in public spaces.)

The fact that droplets settle pretty quickly is the basis for the 6-foot social distancing rule.  In theory, if somebody coughs from six feet away, the droplets produced won’t hit you.

But social distancing alone is not good enough for the Chinese.  They use masks, both to absorb some of the droplets, and to slow down the velocity with which they are projected away from the source.  And they are absolutely right in doing that.  Which is why US policy is about to change.

Filtration standards and such.

An incredibly helpful and succinct discussion of single-use masks, surgical masks, and N95 respirators, along with considerable other helpful information (e.g., can you wash disposable masks) can be found at Smart Air.  If you want to get up to speed on what’s what, for actual medical supplies, that’s the place to start.

A different guide to the different types of “surgical” masks can be found at Crosstex (.pdf).  The takeaway  from both of these is that just because it looks like a surgical mask does not mean that it filters viruses and droplets like surgical mask.  It may or may not.  And if it were certified to filter like a surgical mask, it would probably not be on sale to the general public.

N95:  A filtration standard meaning that, when new and carefully tested, a mask will stop 95% of very tiny (0.3 micron or 300 nanometer) particles.  Source:  FDA.  Note that, in real life, you don’t actually achieve that because air leaks around the edge of the mask.  That’s why, for protecting the mask user, a properly-fitted mask is important.  For the mask maker, that means you need to construct it so it seals well.

But that’s the primary reason that health care professionals need N95s.  They really need to be able to stop everything, all the droplet sizes, and stop particles down the size of a few viruses stuck together.  That’s why they need those masks more than we do.

N99, P95, P99:  Additional mask standards.  First one filters 99% of particles that size.  The Ps have the indicated filtration, but are good for oily particles as well, where the Ns aren’t (I think of it as P as in paint).

How in the heck do you filter out something that small, and still be able to breathe through the mask?  Mainly, through the miracle of Melt-blown cloth.  This is a nonwoven cloth made from small-diameter plastic fibers fused together.  It is the heart of most common medical masks, including both N95 and true surgical masks.  This is the element in the mask that filters out fine particles.  And, of course, many different types are made, so you can’t just buy melt-blown cloth and assume it’s good enough for a mask.

PM2.5 (particulate matter 2.5 microns) refers to air pollution particles of around 2.5 microns in size.  In essence, PM2.5 is shorthand for all the common air pollutants that are aerosols, i.e., can stay suspended in the air.  Note that, by definition, an N95 mask filters out at least 95% of PM2.5.

PM2.5 mask.  Near as I can tell, this is not a standard.  This just means that the manufacturer claims that the mask was designed to filter out PM2.5.  It’s a mask that claims to filter out (some, all, most?) particles of that size.   Near as I have been able to tell, a) nobody tests those claims, b) a lot of PM2.5 masks and respirators don’t do what they claim (but some do), and c) near as I can tell, these are not approved for use by health care personnel.

Mask versus respirator.  Near as I can tell, anything that is truly designed to seal up against your face, so that air doesn’t leak around the device, is technically a respirator. By contrast, if it’s designed that air likely leaks around the edges and/or the principal purpose of it is to stop fluids, that’s a mask.

That’s why you’ll hear the terms N95 respirator and N95 mask used interchangeably.  Even though the thing looks like a mask, it’s supposed to function like a respirator.  You are supposed to fit the thing to your face so that air leaks are minimized.  Otherwise, really, what’s the point?

Edit:  Single-use mask versus surgical mask.  I didn’t even realize there were standards here, but see this page at Smart Air for a very helpful discussion.  Single-use face masks are typical single-layer thin masks.  If manufactured to the Chinese standard, these will stop large droplets (3 micron) fairly well, but not viruses.  The US does not have a standard for these.  The US only had standards for surgical masks:

Surgical mask standards:  BFE and PFE.  An excellent summary of the difference between single-use masks, surgical masks, and respirators can be found at Smart Air Filters.  They explain it much better than I do.

Edit:  CORRECTION.  I have now located a proper description of surgical mask standards, from Primed, which I am going to crib here.

1. BFE (Bacterial Filtration Efficiency): BFE measures how well a surgical mask mask filters out an aerosol consisting of 3 micron droplets containing staph.  In order to be certified as a surgical mask, the cloth has to filter out 95% of those droplets.  Better grades of mask (mderate and high protection masks) must filter out at least 98% of those droplets.

2. PFE (Particulate Filtration Efficiency): PFE measures how well a mask filters out virus-sized particles.  They are supposed to be tested with particles of 0.1 micron size (about the size of coronavirus).  The higher the percentage, the better the mask filtration.  Apparently, some masks are tested with somewhat larger particles, and can show a misleadingly high PPE.

Note that the actual performance of a surgical mask, in use, will not be as good as these filtration rates suggest, because the mask does not seal up against the face.  (See Mask versus Respirator).  Air leakage around the edges of the mask compromises the overall filtration.  The standards above show the filtering ability of the cloth, not the overall mask assembly as a whole.

Edit: WRONG. Note that surgical masks are NOT tested for their ability to stop penetration by bacteria in the air.  They ARE tested against penetration by fluids, and penetration by bacteria and such in fluids.  They are designed for health care workers who need to avoid being infected by fluid-borne bacteria and viruses.  As far as I can tell, that’s why a proper surgical mask, tested and certified for health care use, has some ability to filter particles.   Most (some?) are made with three-ply construction, the middle ply of which is some form of melt-blown cloth.

And, helpfully, melt-blown cloth is also used in some (but by no means all) home furnace filters ( (see this manufacturer’s page)Which gives me the segue to comparing the standards above to two that homeowners are familiar with:  MERV and HEPA.  And here, I assume you all know I am not talking about standard fiberglass, very-open-weave filters.  I’m talking about the ones that look like a sheet of fuzzy cloth.

MERV:  Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value.  From Wikipedia.

The scale is designed to represent the worst-case performance of a filter when dealing with particles in the range of 0.3 to 10 micrometers. The MERV value is from 1 to 16. Higher MERV values correspond to a greater percentage of particles captured on each pass, with a MERV 16 filter capturing more than 95% of particles over the full range.  (That little factoid will be important for tomorrow’s post.)

Do two MERV 8s make a 16?  No, absolutely not.  The MERV rating is like a pore size.  As you go up the scale, in groups of four, they start filtering smaller particles.  The 8s simply have larger pores, in effect, and let the smallest particles pass through.  That’s clear from this full explanation of MERV ASHRAE chart.  (But, if I’m reading that right, two MERV 14s, in sequence, come very close to achieving the same filtration as a MERV 16.  And two MERV 15s in sequence exceed that).

HEPA:  High-efficiency particulate arresting.  Again, from Wikipedia:

“Filters meeting the HEPA standard must satisfy certain levels of efficiency. Common standards require that a HEPA air filter must remove—from the air that passes through—at least ..  99.97% (ASME, U.S. DOE)[5][6] of particles whose diameter is equal to 0.3 μm; with the filtration efficiency increasing for particle diameters both less than and greater than 0.3 μm.[7] 

The little μm thing is microns (micrometers).

MPR:  Microparticle Performance Rating.  This is a propriety rating system developed by 3M.  It reflects the ability of a filter to capture the smallest airborne particles—from 0.3 to 1 µm in size (Wikipedia).  So you have to get the detailed 3M literature, if you want to look at Filtrete electrostatic filters:  https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1740587O/filtrete-merv-vs-mpr.pdf

Filtrete (r) filters differ from MERV-rated filters in that all varieties of Filtrete capture some small particles.  If you look at E1s (the smallest particles, down to 0.3 micron), it appears that you need two layers of MPR 2800 Filtrete to achieve 95% or more of filtration of E1 particles.  Although, for particles one micron and up, one layer of MPR 2800 or one layer of MPR 2500 would achieve 95% capture of those particles in a single pass.

I am uncertain as to how that Filtrete electrostatic material behaves under adverse conditions, such as when damp.


Filtration properties of common household materials. 

This is where the rubber hits the road.  Start with this article, where they actually tested cloth and made masks.

Here’s one key table, below

This is a pretty good setup, because they literally aerosolized the bacterium and virus, then tested what happened when they pushed that aerosol through a cloth panel at about the rate you would if you were breathing.  These particles are certainly on a par with the size of the coronavirus itself, and presumably the aerosol droplets are about the best proxy you are going to find for … well, aerosol droplets.

First, note the similarity of the first two columns, despite the differing size of the bacterium and the virus.  That’s because, by and large,  the masks are catching the droplets, not the individual bacteria and viruses themselves. The standard here is the surgical mask, circled in red.  I note that a vacuum cleaner bag (not stated as to type, likely not HEPA, because I’m pretty sure they are talking about cloth bags) was just about as good as a surgical mask — I put a red line there.  And a tea towel, doubled over, was just about as good.  But in the right-hand column, that’s the back-pressure you would face, in breathing through those materials.  The vacuum-cleaner bag and the doubled-over tea towel were 2 to 2.5 times harder to breathe through than the surgical mask material.

Source: Testing the efficacy of homemade masks: would they protect in an influenza pandemic? Davies A1, Thompson KA, Giri K, Kafatos G, Walker J, Bennett A.  Disaster Med Public Health Prep. 2013 Aug;7(4):413-8. doi: 10.1017/dmp.2013.43.

This is important, because the harder the material is to breathe through, the more air will leak around the mask, rather than through it, and reduce the overall filtration efficiency.

So, to be clear, yeah, you can find stuff around the home that will give as much filtration efficiency as a good surgical mask (but not an N95 mask).  But it’s going to be somewhat hard to breathe through.

And, if you care, read the section of that paper on fitting the mask.  All of the home-made masks were much leakier than a good-quality surgical mask.  That’s important, and that’s what you need to focus on if you make a mask.

Finally, how much better is it to wear a home-made mask, made out of a cotton t-shirt, than to have no mask at all, in terms of containing the spread of disease (from people coughing, in this case).  Well, they tested that empirically:  Literally had people cough, through a mask, into a sterile box, and counted the crap that came out.

 

Source:  Same as prior table.

Do home-made masks help prevent the spread of contagion?  Heck yes.  Look at the bottom line:  No mask, 200, homemade mask, 43, proper surgical mask, 30.  That’s the count of bacterial “colony-forming units” that they observed.  Do the math, and a home-made mask gets you (200-43/200-30) = 92% of the reduction that you would get from a standard high-quality surgical mask.

Now in case you’re surprised by that, my reading of it is that anything that stops droplets from flying is good.  You aren’t literally trying to filter out tiny little viruses.  You are trying to filter droplets, most of which you can catch with cloth, some of which fly right through.

Filtering ability of paper towels.  I didn’t find a scholarly article (and got tired of looking), but these people seem to have their act together.  It’s one of those great articles that just gets to the point.  And the short answer is that common household paper towels, do, in fact, have some measurable ability to filter out particles in the size range we are talking about.

For very tiny (0.3 micron) particles, “A single layer of kitchen paper captured just 23% particles. Adding an extra layer only increased particle capture to 33%.”

But for aerosol-sized particles (smaller than “droplets”):  “For larger 2.5 micron particles, paper towel performed better. The single layer of kitchen paper captured 52% of these larger particles”.

(From that, I would infer that two layers would get 75% or so.)

Those same folks provide a nice graphic re-write of the article on home-made masks, at this location.

Near as I can tell, nobody has done the one I want to see, which is a coffee filter.  I use(d) those as a pre-filter when purifying raw water when camping, and I think that’s a pretty common use.   I did test that you could breathe through one (possible, but a lot of resistance).  I will keep looking for that one.


Bottom line:  Wear ’em if you’ve got ’em.  If not, buy one and modify it.  If not, make one from scratch.  Any mask is better than no mask.  Even paper towels have some filtering efficiency. 

Next post is about buying and modifying masks.

Final post will be about making masks.  But you can just go on Amazon and get a free Kindle download on that.

Post #502: Craft candles without a tarp

I like to burn beeswax candles during the holiday season,.  I suppose that’s because the scent reminds me of my grandparents’ church.

Candle-making is also a nice craft to do with your kids.   The process is satisfying, it requires parental supervision, and the results are “consumables”.  You aren’t stuck with them, because the whole point of making a candle is to burn it.

That said, most instructions for making traditional candles with your kids omit the most important part:  The tarp.  That is, the tarp you should lay down on your kitchen floor before you start.  Because if you don’t, you get little tiny drips and flecks of wax everywhere, and then you can skate across your kitchen floor for the next week until that wears off.  After an episode or two of that, I learned that traditional candle-making, using liquid wax, is for the garage, not the house.

But there is a way to craft candles that involves no mess:  Beeswax sheets.  My kids made the candles above (years ago).  The process could not be easier.  Take a sheet of colored beexwax and wrap it tightly around a wick.  Strange as it may seem, those burn just like a regular candle.  The candles pictured above are burning now, as I am writing this.

It’s certainly not the cheapest way to make a beeswax candle.  If you’re going to make a lot of beeswax candles, it’s far less expensive to buy beeswax in bulk and either cast or dip the candles using melted wax.  Currently, bulk beeswax seems to be going for $7 to $8 per pound.  Kits with colored beeswax sheets and wick included seem to run about three times that much, per pound.

But it is by far the easiest.  Cut up the sheets as you desire, warm them in your hands until they are pliable, and carefully roll up the wick in the wax sheet.  That’s it.  When you are done rolling up the sheet, the candle is ready to burn.

What’s not to like?  It’s non-denominational, because as far as I can tell there is no religion that’s against using candles.  Little kids can do it.  Bigger kids can get creative when they do it.  And it involves bright colors and fire, both of which are child magnets.  If you run out of ideas about what to do with your kids this holiday season, consider making candles.

Post #499: Why I don’t recycle my Christmas tree.

It’s much more useful as a fire starter.

Above is the last little fragment of last year’s Christmas tree, just to show you how well and how quickly it burns.  Looks green, burns like gasoline.

I have a wood stove, and I’ve never run across a commercial fire starter that works as well as a dry Christmas tree.  Catches in an instant, burns fast and burns hot.  So don’t recycle my Christmas tree.  I keep it, cut it up, and use it in my wood stove in place of commercial fire starters.

The only downside is that dry Christmas tree pieces are so flammable that I don’t dare keep them in the house.  Commercial fire starters are much safer than a dry Christmas tree.

This time of year you’ll see safety reminders about the hazard of Christmas tree fires.  And now you know somebody who uses his Christmas tree in place of commercial fire starters.  That’s how well they burn.