Post G23-056: Yes, you can make sun-dried tomatoes in Virginia. Who knew?

 

This is the obvious followup to my just-prior post.

The answers are:

Yes, you can.  All it takes is four or five consecutive good drying days.  After four days, most of the batch was dry enough to be put in a jar and put on the shelf.  A small — but distinctly different — residual will get a fifth day of drying.

The catch is that it’s rare to get a string of good drying days in a Virginia summer.  You ideally need the weather to be consistently sunny, hot (85+ is ideal), breezy, and dry (relative humidity below 60% mid-afternoon).  So you can air-dry, if the weather is right, but you can’t count on being able to air dry, the way they can in a Mediterranean climate.  You can occasionally air-dry.

Achieving leathery versus crispy with open-air drying?  So far, the best I’ve gotten is “leathery”.   And I suspect that’s the limit of open-air drying here in USDA Zone 7, Northern Virginia.  Whether or not “leathery” is shelf-stable, absent further preservation steps, I’m going to find out.  (Near as I can tell, “crispy” keeps for at least a year.)

As a snack, I’ve already gotten the feedback that crispy beats leathery.  So for best end-user value, I’m probably going to stick most of these in my electric dehydrator, for a finishing step to get them all the way to crispy.

Does the low temperature of “sun-dried” tomato production result in a product superior to properly electrically dried tomatoes?  No. For sure, the sun-drieds are processed at a low temperature.  But I think the 135F limit for electrically-dried tomatoes was chosen specifically to avoid degrading the flavor of the finished product.  Bottom line, other than the leathery texture, neither my wife nor I could tell sun-dried from heat-dehydrated tomatoes

Leathery versus still too wet:  Listen to your inner “ick”.  It turned out to be remarkably easy to tell when the tomatoes were dry enough to be called “leathery”.  For some, it was obvious because they were still visibly wet.  For the rest, pick them up, and if the flesh of the tomato still moves when you rub it, it’s still too wet.  I say “ick” because that’s the sensation it gave me.  Like a gummy worm, but less firm.

 


A better rule for cutting tomatoes for drying.

One nice thing about air-drying is that you can cut your tomato slices thicker, and so pack more tomatoes into a given tray area.  (You can’t put really thick slices in a Nesco dryer because the space between the tray surfaces is only about a half an inch.)  In fact, traditional Italian sun-dried tomatoes are literal tomato halves, and so are quite thick in the middle.

For this batch, I aimed for 1/2″ thick slices, versus the 1/4″ slices typically recommended for use in an electric dehydrator.  Some of the slices did not dry fully in four days.  But that wasn’t due to their thickness.

All of my tomato slices that failed the “leathery” test had tomato skin on one side.  And conversely, all the slices with skin on one side failed the “leathery” test at four days.They were either slices from the end of the tomato, or cherry tomatoes that I had simply cut in half.  And I’m pretty sure that makes sense.  The skin is going to be nearly impervious to water. 

I’m far too lazy to skin the tomatoes before drying, so my new rule is to cut very thin (1/4″) slices off the ends, and thicker (1/2″) slices in the middle.  That way, all tomato flesh is at most 1/4″ from a surface through which water may evaporate.  I’m still not sure what I’m going to so for cherry tomatoes.


Summary.

Yes, you most certainly can sun-dry tomatoes in a humid climate. I dried most of a batch of tomatoes to a stable, leathery state in four days.

You need to have a string of good drying days.  The most common rule is that you need considerable time with air temperatures 85F or higher and relative humidity 60% or lower.  Plus sunlight and a breeze.  In my case, the past four days have been brutally hot (flirting with 100F), sunny, and reasonably dry.

You can predict afternoon relative humidity based on morning conditions, and the use of an on-line relative humidity calculator.  (That’s at the end of the prior post).

In my case, the slices that failed to dry in four days were the same as the slices with tomato skin covering one side.  (E.g., from cherry tomatoes, halved).  I had no problem drying 1/2″ slices, as long as there was raw tomato on both sides of the slice.

Otherwise, just follow standard guidance.  Cut and salt the tomatoes.  Put them in the sun, with some sort of netting to keep off bugs.  Bring them in at night and flip them.  Dry until leathery.

The only thing I can’t seem to achieve is drying tomatoes to the point of crispness.  But crisp is preferable for snacking.  So I’m going to have to use a bit of electricity to get them to that point.

By far, the hardest point for me was getting over my aversion to having sliced tomatoes sitting around at room temperature.  But, as a matter of logic, everybody says this takes about four days.  So for most of that time, those tomato slices are going to be quite wet.  And that’s normal.  Ideally, the high acidity of the tomato (and maybe the salting), plus the sterilizing effects of the UV in sunlight, all combine to keep mold at bay long enough for the tomatoes to dry.

Post G23-054: Copper soap versus citric acid for powdery mildew, the rematch.

Edit:  Copper soap works, citric acid does not (see Post G23-059).

It’s déjà mildew all over again. If you are looking for a way to kill powdery mildew cheaply, read Post G19 and Post G20.  But if you have a powdery mildew problem, you might be well served to read this entire post.

Arguably the biggest expense in treating powdery mildew is the DeLorean.  This, because once you spot powdery mildew on your plants, the only truly effective treatment involves a time machine.

By that, I mean that I should have been spraying something to prevent this, weeks ago.  But I’m just not the sort of person to spray stuff on perfectly health-looking plants.

And so, I’m setting up a test of two sprays for preventing further spread of powdery mildew.  In this post, I’m just showing the “before” pictures and setting up the background.  It’ll be a couple of weeks before I have any results. Continue reading Post G23-054: Copper soap versus citric acid for powdery mildew, the rematch.

Post G23-053: It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood.

 

Today feels like a fine autumn day, here in Vienna, VA.  So I thought I’d write something unalloyedly nice.  On the screen porch, feet up, sipping iced tea.

Listening to the katydids sing.  As I type.

Or whatever those damned bugs are.  Maybe the right name is locusts, but locusts get such a bad rap that I’ll cut them some slack and call them something nicer.  You might find that loud chirruping annoying, where you live.  But where I live, the katydids are Nature’s white noise machine.  They mask what would otherwise be unrelenting traffic noise, lawn mowers, leaf blowers, and so on.

I say autumn day, because the air is cool and the humidity is low.  After the heat and humidity of summer, this is a welcome change.  So it feels like fall, even if the autumnal equinox is still almost a month away.

Here are my observations on three nice things that are happening in my garden. Continue reading Post G23-053: It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood.

Post G23-052: I dried my underwear in my food dehydrator.

 

I know what you’re thinking.  You’re thinking “Hey, dummy, that’s what the microwave is for.”

And while I acknowledge the truthiness of that statement, my excuse is that I baked my briefs in this manner for Science.

This post focuses on a seemingly simple question:  Why is an electric food dehydrator such an incredibly energy-intensive way to preserve food?

The answer is unsatisfying.  In roughly equal parts:

  • Evaporating water is energy-intensive
  • Evaporation water out of food is even more so.
  • My particular dehydrator is somewhat inefficient.

My bottom line is that drying a pound of wet produce, in my electric dryer, under optimal conditions, takes about 2 kilowatt-hours of electricity.  And there ain’t much I can do about that, other than coming up with a solar dryer that will function in my climate.  My first attempt at that turned out mediocre (Post G22-015).

Continue reading Post G23-052: I dried my underwear in my food dehydrator.

Post #1843: Why are ceiling fans vastly more efficient than box fans?

 

In a nutshell?  To provide the same flow (CFM or cubic feet per minute), a small fan (like a box fan) has to move air a lot faster than a larger fan (like a ceiling fan).  And to move air fast, it takes disproportionately more pressure — and hence energy — than it takes to move it slowly.

The rest is just arithmetic.

I’m not talking slightly more efficient.  It’s well-established that ceiling fans are the most efficient type of home fan you can buy (reference).

I’m talking on-order-of five times as efficient as a box fan.  That, comparing the elderly ceiling fans in my house, against the most efficient modern box fan currently sold at Home Depot.

My main point is that the efficiency advantage of ceiling fans is rooted in basic physics.   It’s purely a consequence of their larger size.  It has nothing to do with (e.g.) the grilles on the box fan or the efficiency of various styles of electric motors.  It is simply that to achieve some given rate of air movement (cubic feet/minute), it takes far less energy to move a large volume, slowly, than to move a small volume, quickly.

Not only are ceiling fans more efficient than box fans, they always have been, and always will be.  It’s not the motor, or the housing, or the grille, or any of that.  It’s just physics.

Edit:  This also explains why bathroom fans are so slow at clearing the air.  If you wanted a bathroom fan that could move as much air as a box fan, it would require a 500 watt motor (Post #1859).

 

Continue reading Post #1843: Why are ceiling fans vastly more efficient than box fans?

Post #1842: … and the voice of the chihuahua is heard in our land, …

With apologies to Song of Solomon, 2:12.  But surely the blog title makes at least as much sense as ” .. the voice of the turtle … “.  Whatever.  This post isn’t about Bible specifics.

The background here is that a friend, has a little kid, who really likes a stuffed toy, that has a broken electronic voice-box.

The catch is that the toy in question is a 25-year-old plush chihuahua dog.  It was a promotional giveaway from Taco Bell.  It was never meant to be repaired.

There are probably a lot of these exact Taco Bell chihuahua dogs still in existence.  You can buy one on Etsy (below).  But at this point, it’s a fair bet that the 25-year-old batteries in the device either have died, or will soon die, if the toy is actually used as a toy. So if you want one that talks — and the little girl in question definitely wanted that — you’d best be prepared to replace the batteries, at least.

Source:  Etsy (link to page). 

 

So, would I mind trying to fix it?  Needless to say, replacement parts may be an issue.  And in terms of helpful instructions on the internet, I found none.

In the end, I tried to fix four broken Taco Bell chihuahua voice boxes.  You never know who might want to read about fixing a mute Taco Bell chihuahua plush toy.  So I thought I’d document the fix.  It’s not as if hordes of folks read this blog, even on my best days.  Bottom line, three out of four now work. Continue reading Post #1842: … and the voice of the chihuahua is heard in our land, …

Post G23-051: Gardening, the home stretch 2023.

 

The summer of 2023 is drawing to a close.  They days are getting noticeably shorter.  The kids are back in school.

Good riddance.  In part, that’s because it’s been a mediocre gardening year for me.  But mostly, that’s because I can recall a time when reading the weather report didn’t routinely scare the crap out of me. Continue reading Post G23-051: Gardening, the home stretch 2023.

Post #1841: Used electric vehicle prices are plummeting?

Caveat emptor.

It has been a long time since I last bought a used car. 

I have forgotten just how sleazy the low end of the used car market can be.

But I’m getting educated in a hurry.

Today’s lesson in low-end used cars?  A few weeks back, I was interested enough in an older Nissan Leaf that I scheduled an appointment with the dealer, to have a look at it.  Then I did my homework, and cancelled the appointment.

And, foolish me, I figured I at least owed the guy an explanation of why I wasn’t interested.  Because that’s what reasonable people do.

The ad for the car claimed excellent battery health, and a 110-mile range, per the independent estimate from Recurrent.com.  By contrast, once I learned to read the “gas gauge” of a Nissan Leaf, photos of the dashboard revealed barely 60 miles of range left, as well as a battery that was in mediocre health.  Via email, I told the dealer that’s why I was no longer interested.  The car really didn’t have adequate range left.

I continue to track the ad for that car, just to try to get a handle on the used car market.

In response to my explanation of that cancelled appointment, what do you think the used car dealer did to the ad for that car?

  1. Nothing.
  2. Removed the falsely inflated range estimate from Recurrent.com
  3. Removed the photos of the car that revealed the actual range.

If you guessed “c”, then you’re a lot less naive about the used car market than I am.  Or was.

As an economist, I really shouldn’t use the word “sleazy”, when the behavior is rational.  The dealer represents seller, plain and simple.  The dealer’s job is to get the best price for the seller, within some reasonable timeframe.  Anything that  increases the odds of selling the car, without getting thrown in jail, is fair game.  So, if fuzzying-up the information on range might help sell the car, then fuzzying should occur.  It’s up to the buyer to understand that and act accordingly.

In fairness, the dealer keeps dropping the price of that 2016 Nissan Leaf.  In any case, I’ve already made up my mind that I don’t want anything earlier than a 2018 Leaf, due to the rapid degradation of the battery in earlier model years of Leafs.

The lesson here is that it’s still a used car, even if its electric.  With everything that buying a used car entails.  Just because it’s eco-friendly doesn’t mean the dealer is friendly.  The upshot is that in trying to be a straight shooter, in a room full of crooks, all I did was help the crooks to be better crooks.


My local used EV market still appears too hot for my liking.

In addition to that 2016 Leaf, I have been tracking three 2018-or-later Leafs.  These have a different battery chemistry from older Leafs.  They retain their battery health and range much better than the pre-2018s and are priced accordingly.

Of the three cars I begin tracking less than two weeks ago, two have already sold.

Assuming that’s not just some kind of fluke, either I have an exceptional eye for a good deal, or the market for a reliable used EV is pretty hot.  At least around here. 


But the internet assures me that used EV prices are plummeting.

Official U.S. Consumer Price Index data are all-but-useless for judging long-term trends in the price of new and used cars.  I went through that in Post #1836.

Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, via the Federal Reserve of St. Louis FRED system

The quality adjustment embedded in the CPI car price data mean that the price trends as published by the Bureau of Labor Statistics have nothing to do with how much money you’ll need to shell out to buy a basic car.  Such as Toyota Corolla, shown in yellow below.

But if car prices move fast enough, the actual change in prices will swamp the BLS quality adjustments.  And so, for sharp short-term price movements, the BLS data aren’t too bad.  From the BLS, we can see that used car prices peaked at the end of 2021, and have been mostly falling since.

Source:  Underlying data from the St. Louis Federal Reserve (FRED)

The BLS does not appear to publish any data separating electric vehicles from other types of vehicles.  So I have to turn to privately-produced price statistics if I want to get a handle on what’s happening to EV prices, as distinct from other types of vehicles.

And that’s where things turn a bit odd.  Because, as far as I can tell, a lot of private-sector price estimates show that the price of used EVs is plummeting.

Here are two such estimates, from what I believe to be independent data sources:

The devil is in the details.

The iSeeCars study is a study of used cars one to five years old.  And the measured price reduction in that segment was driven by Tesla’s decision to cut the price of its new cars.  More-or-less, what they measured is that the price of used Teslas fell about 30%.  In addition, it appears that they do not adjust for changes in the mix of vehicles sold, but simply take the change in the average asking price for a used EV.

The Recurrent study is also a study of used cars one to five years old.  It appears to be based on the simple average of the asking prices of seven common used EVs and PHEVs.  And, as with the iSeeCars study, a big chunk of the reduction is attributed to Tesla’s decision to cut the price of their new cars substantially.

That said, the Recurrent study shows a corresponding increase in (e.g.) the fraction of the used EV market offered for sale at less than $25K.  I’m pretty sure that excludes most Teslas.  The inference would be that these price declines affected the broader market, not just Tesla.


I’m still in no particular hurry to buy.

When all is said and done, my guess is that I should be in no hurry to buy a used EV.  Prices for relatively new models (one-to-five years old) appear to be falling, in large part due to new-car price cuts by market leader Tesla.  I don’t perceive that among low-end models, in my geographic area.  But its possible I simply tracked an unusual small sample of cars.

Although the price trends may be murky, one aspect is clear.  I’m still something of a babe in the woods when it comes to buying a used EV.  I need to get a lot smarter before I put my money down on a used car.  Even if it is an eco-friendly electric car.