Post #1960: The U.S. is resolving the chaos in the EV charging market. Slowly.

 

This post started off as planning for a road trip from Vienna VA to a town in rural upstate New York.  The catch being that I planned to take my Chevy Bolt EV.

If you look at the map above, it seems like it should be easy.  There appear to be EV charging stations all over my planned route.  But the more I looked at the details, the less I understood.  And the more I realized that most of those chargers pictured above are useless to me. Continue reading Post #1960: The U.S. is resolving the chaos in the EV charging market. Slowly.

Post #1951: Replacing the battery in a cheap cylindrical dashcam.

 

 

This post walks through the process of replacing the “non-replaceable” battery inside a cheap cylindrical dashcam, like the one pictured above.

It’s not hard to do.  I did two identical cameras.  The second one took about 20 minutes.  Both repairs were successful.

You don’t even have to read this post to figure it out.  You can get the gist of the steps by scrolling through the pictures below.

If I learned anything from this, it’s that if I ever buy another dashcam, I’m going to be sure it’s the type that uses a capacitor instead of a battery.

Continue reading Post #1951: Replacing the battery in a cheap cylindrical dashcam.

Post #1944: Chevy Bolt one-month review

 

  • I bought a used car.
  • And to gas, au revoir.
  • This is favored, by far,
  • By the energy czar.
  • If the range is sub-par?
  • Well, I don’t travel far.
  • Not to Ulannbataar, or far-off Zanzibar,
  • Just my local bazaar.

[Thumpity-thump.]

  • So it’s no blazing star,
  • No de-luxe Ja-gu-ar.
  • I don’t know it from NASCAR
  • Or races stock-car.
  • So it’s not caviar
  • With a Cuban cigar.
  • It is more Hershey-bar.
  • Middle-class avatar.
  • But I set a low bar.
  • Been no glitches so far.
  • And it isn’t bizarre.
  • Like some daft minicar.

[Thumpity-thump.]

  • In mood most noire?
  • Yearn for God’s abattoir?
  • Then grab hold of the busbar.
  • Forsake CPR.
  • But for now, NPR
  • And some padding lumbar
  • Will together debar
  • Good Saint Pete, registrar.

In prose

Bought a 2020 Chevy Bolt about a month ago.  Just over 5K miles on it.  Just under $19K with taxes and tags, should end up under $15K after the tax rebate.

It’s the best used car I’ve ever bought.  But — trust me on this — that isn’t saying much.

Good:

  • About 5 miles per kilowatt-hour, as driven.  Much better than EPA, and almost on a par with my wife’s 2021 Prius Prime.
  • Low C02.  Where I live (and charge), driving 150 miles in this car produces about the same amount of C02 as burning one gallon of gasoline.  I have years, paying back the C02 that went into making all those batteries.  But in terms of operating C02 emissions, that’s quite low.
  • Comfortable:  Lot of front leg room, driver position is much higher off the ground than a Prius, which makes this easy to get into and out of, and gives good visibility (for a car, that is).  The driver’s seat fits my frame (6′) well.
  • Zippy.  Very zippy when you need to zip.  Lots of acceleration off-the-line.
  • Plugs right into the wall.  Level I (120-volt) charging works just fine.  An overnight charge at 12 amps adds maybe 75 miles of range.
  • Surprisingly nice sound system.  I have what I’m pretty sure is the stock radio, and the sound quality is very good.

The neutral:

  • Came with just one fob.  That’s really an issue with buying it used.  But, it was surprisingly easy to buy and in-the-car program some new fobs.
  • No spare or jack.  But, it was easy enough to locate and buy a jack and spare that should work with this car.
  • All told, a couple-hundred bucks fixed both issues.

The not-so-good:

  • Bumpy ride.  Short wheelbase and tight suspension give it a jittery ride.  I probably wouldn’t notice it but my own suspension isn’t all that tight, so I tend to jiggle more than I like, as I drive.
  • Have to pay attention.  This car has tight, responsive steering and a somewhat wide turning circle, both of which were a surprise, given how small the car is bumper-to-bumper.  (This is a foot-and-a-half shorter than my wife’s 2021 Prius Prime, but has a wider turning radius.)  Both of these mean that you can’t just rest a couple of fingers on the steering wheel, and cruise down the road.  You actually have to grab the wheel and steer the car.

Summary

All my life, when faced with a major energy-using investment, I’ve opted for the most efficient thing I could reasonably get.  And, so far, I’ve never been sorry I did that.

This car fits that pattern.  As long as it doesn’t fail prematurely, I am more than satisfied with it.  It’s all the car I need and it’s about as C02-efficient as a car will likely ever be in my lifetime.

I don’t think I’m going to look back, a few years from now, and say “oops”.  For a used car, that’s about all I can ask for.

Plus, I can now sneer at all those old-fashioned hybrid cars on the road.

Post #1936: What if this is as good as it gets?

 

Source:  Data are from U.S. DOE, Sources: U.S. Energy Information Administration, Form EIA-860, Annual Electric Generator Report. U.S. Energy Information Administration, Form EIA-861, Annual Electric Power Industry Report. U.S. Energy Information Administration, Form EIA-923, Power Plant Operations Report and predecessor forms.

When technology produces big leaps in energy efficiency, it’s pretty easy to make meaningful reductions in your carbon footprint.  Just buy newer stuff.

But as a long-term observer of this issue, it seems to me that technology-driven gains in energy efficiency are hitting their limits.  There are a lot of important areas — cars, fridges, lighting, and even electrical generation itself — where any further reductions in carbon footprint look a lot more difficult.

What I’m trying to say is, looks like technology has already grabbed the low-hanging fruit.

I’m not going to belabor the societal implications of this.  For me, this means that once I’m driving an EV and living in a house with an efficient heat pump and LED lights, there are no more easy reductions in my household carbon emissions.  Nor are there likely to be, for the foreseeable future.  Lifestyle changes, yes.  Effortless reductions in emissions, no.

Maybe this is as good as it gets.

Continue reading Post #1936: What if this is as good as it gets?

Post #1934: No spare tire? When did this happen?

 

You buy into new tech, you expect certain aspects of your life to change.

Buy a Chevy Bolt, and part of the deal is that you stop saying “gas pedal” for the accelerator.  Likewise, “step on the gas” is no longer a valid request.

I guess I should have seen it coming.  But I now wonder how long it will be before the phrase “spare tire” goes the way of “cigarette lighter socket”.


Flat tire?  Use OnStar

The Chevy Bolt provides absolutely nothing for dealing with a flat tire.  It has taken me a while to get my mind around why they did that.  And no, I don’t think it’s just to sell OnStar services.

Era 1:  Ancient history, the true spare tire.

Standard equipment:  Full-service tire and rim, jack, lug wrench.

Back in the day, cars came with five functional rims, and five full-sized tires.  One of those was the spare tire. If you had a flat you could drive on your spare more-or-less indefinitely.  Because your spare was a real tire.

In most cases, you could use any of the five tires/rims, on front or back, or either side of the car.  This, despite whatever folklore you may have absorbed.  This, per the standard method for “rotating the tires”, according to the experts at Bridgestone tires, among others.  (Directional tires — those that have a forward direction of rotation — are the exception.)

Source:  tirerack.com

Era 2:  The limited-service, compact, or doughnut spare

Standard equipment:  Limited-service tire and rim, jack, lug wrench.

Sometime in the 1980s, car makers began to replace the full-sized spare with a “compact spare”.  This was an era when cars were shrinking, gas mileage was at a premium, and competition from foreign manufacturers was intense.  Credit for the first compact spare apparently goes to Volkswagen (reference).

Initially the compact spare was the mark of the econo-box, but eventually it became the norm.

Today, there are still plenty of cars that come with a full-sized spare tire standard, but these tend to run to be cars meant to have an “off road” look, as well as some top-end sedans.  If you buy your typical mid-size middle-of-the-road vehicle, chances are pretty good it comes with a compact spare.

To be honest, as tires got better over the years, and cars got smaller, I found that the full-sized spare was more of a nuisance than a comfort.  Improvements in manufacturing made tire sidewall “blowouts” a thing of the past.  Steel-belted radials made it far harder to get a flat by picking up a nail in the tread.  And, in general, tires just became a whole lot more reliable.  And the full-sized spare ended up just taking up space.

My wife’s 2005 Prius came with a doughnut spare.  We sneered at the time, but a) we used it several times so far, b) it works fine for getting the car to the tire shop, and c) little did we know what was coming up next.

Era 3:  Tire pump, Fix-a-Flat, and a prayer

Standard equipment:  Tire puncture repair kit.

My wife’s 2021 Prius Prime came with no spare at all.  Instead, Toyota provides a “tire puncture repair kit” which, as far as I can tell, consists of some tire sealant in a pressurized can, an electric air pump, and directions for use.

Prayer is optional but recommended.  And as I am a non-religious person, I tossed in an actual tire plugging kit as backup.

This is now the standard on all Prius models.  You don’t even get a doughnut spare,  In effect, you get a can of Fix-a-Flat, an electric tire pump that fits that can, and roughly 35-step directions for use.  I don’t think we even got a lug wrench or a jack, so there’s literally no way for us to take the tire off the car, unless we buy those tools separately. Edit:  Nope, Toyota hid them in an odd spot.  So, oddly, the car does come with jack and lug wrench, but no spare tire of any sort.  That’s a mixed message, for sure.

(For those unfamiliar with the product, Fix-a-Flat (r) is this pressurized goo that you can squirt into a flat tire, and, if all goes well, and you follow directions, it’ll seal the leak in the tire.  At least long enough for you to get to a service station.)

Era 4:  The Chevy Bolt:  Self-sealing tires and real-time tire pressure monitoring.

Standard equipment:  Nada.

The Chevy Bolt takes this to a new low, or new high, depending on your point of view.  Like the Prius Prime, the Chevy Bolt gives you no way to remove a wheel from the car.  No jack, no tire iron. But in addition, they give you no way to fix a flat, period.

Instead, the car comes with “self-sealing tires”.  Bicyclists familiar with the product “Slime” will grasp the concept.  In effect, they have pre-installed Fix-a-Flat, with the idea being that the goo already inside the tires it should seal holes up to about an eighth of an inch.  It also lets you see the tire pressures in real time, which I think would be handy if you’re trying to get a car with a low tire to a service station.

That’s the theory, anyway.  Plus, you are encouraged to subscribe to OnStar.  (I still haven’t figured out how to shut up the OnStar lady upon startup, so I just keep the volume on the radio turned off.)

I have of course put a 12 volt tire pump in the trunk of the Bolt.  Because, in my experience, “self-sealing” tires are more like slower-leaking tires.  It just takes them longer to go flat than if there were no sealant inside the tire.  So I do want to carry some way to inflate the tire.

But I’m thinking long and hard about buying a jack and lug wrench for it.  Not only is the Bolt a relative dense car — short wheelbase, but weighs more than two tons — it has some weird, non-standard jack points.  And Chevy is pretty cagey about just where, exactly, those jack points are, and what will fit.

Crazy as it sounds, to an old guy, Chevy engineers really don’t want the owners to jack up the car, to remove a tire.  And for once, I might just go along with the plan.

In any case, for this car, at least, I think I understand the lack of doughnut spare.  It’s a small, very heavy car.  (As a result, it has a stiff and sometimes uncomfortable suspension, to take all that weight.)  There wouldn’t be a lot of wheel travel with a doughnut spare.  And I think you’d put your battery down too close to the road to be comfortable.

So, on a Prius, if you hit a pothole with the doughnut spare, you might ding a little sheet metal.  With a Bolt, you’ve got some great big battery modules there on the underside of the car.  And I suspect Chevy was a little hesitant to put just a doughnut spare between those and the road surface.


Conclusion

Having had cars with a full-sized spare, a doughnut spare, and no spare, I think the doughnut spare hits the global optimum.  You really only need something that will give you a few miles of travel, a few times in the life of the car.  Just enough to get you home, or to a tire-repair shop.  Dedicating a full-sized tire and rim to that task is wasteful, and overkill.

But no spare?  I’m not too keen on that.  With the Prius Prime, there really is no place to put a doughnut spare.  So I guess I’ll accept Toyota’s puncture repair kit as a necessary evil.  On the Bolt, I can see why Chevy’s engineers might have wanted to avoid a doughnut spare, owing to a very dense, small car with critical components located in the floor of the vehicle.   I’m still not sure why they’ve gone so far out of their way to make it difficult for the Bolt owner to remove a wheel.

In either case — the Prime or the Bolt — I can definitely imagine a situation where I’d want to take the wheel off the car, to get a tire repaired.  That’s a lot less stress on the vehicle than towing the car, just to get a nail puncture repaired.  And right now, that’s not possible, given what the manufacturer supplies with the car.  Not sure what I’m going to do about it.

But this seems to be the trend.  Just as my kids thought I was kidding when I called the 12V power outlet under the dash the “cigarette lighter socket”, someday, when an old guy refers to somebody’s fat gut as a spare tire, none of the younger people are going to have the faintest idea what he’s talking about.

Addendum:  Notes to self on adding donut spares.

Upon further research, nope, no way I can be comfortable driving a care without a spare tire.  Not when I can remedy the situation for a modest expense.

For the 2021 Prius Prime:  The car actually does have a jack, just stowed in an odd place (in a compartment under the back seat).  By report, the tire puncture repair kit is to be used only as a last resort, as using it will kill the tire pressure sensor and require that to be replaced.  By report, the same donut spare fits all regular Prius models from 2004 to 2022.  But the 2017 and later models use a larger, 17″ rim, compared to the earlier models with a 16″ rim.  Experts say you’re better off getting the proper donut for the vehicle.  The Prime still has no place to put a compact spare, and several drivers report tucking it behind a front seat for long trips.  But all we need to do is pick up a donut spare from a junkyard, for any standard Prius model in that range of years,.

For the 2020 Bolt, I’ve already ordered a Chevy S10 jack, from a model year that has the right “button” top jack plate to fit the jack points on the Bolt.  Rumor has it that a Chevy Cruze (2010-2019, excluding diesels!) donut spare will fit the Bolt, with its odd 5/105 bolt pattern.  (The Cruze diesel had slightly larger wheels with a 5/115 bolt pattern).  Everyone says that, owing to the radically smaller diameter of the compact spare (compared to the normal wheel and tire), the compact spare should not be used to replace the front tires (but instead, tires should be shuffled as needed so that a compact spare is used on the rear, in the event of a flat).  The Bolt actually has a wheel well designed to hold a compact spare, but Chevy blocked off part of it, and a spare will only fit completely if stored deflated. 

The upshot is that we’re shopping our local junkyards and/or Ebay for his-‘n’-hers used donut spares, so that when we have a flat, we have some option other than getting towed.

Addendum to Addendum:  I bought some donuts.

Last night I bought what I hope are the relevant donut spare tires off Ebay, having already Ebay’ed a jack/lug wrench for a Chevy S10, to fit the Bolt.  This was more expensive than scrounging the junkyards, but far less expensive than buying a generic boutique “spare nouveu” off Amazon.

The deciding factors in going with the internet were age and fit.  I wanted tires in good shape, because tires degrade over time.  (I didn’t want to buy a donut and immediately have to replace the tire.)  And for the Prius, the rim fit was fairly important.  I only wanted a donut from the latest Prius models, not earlier ones, which means fewer wrecks in the junkyard.

Really, it was like anything else — these days, you get a better selection off the internet than you do in person.  You just pay for it.  When all was said and done, I figured I had a better chance of success picking among 20 or 30 current offerings for each donut on Ebay, than I did driving out to my nearest you-pick junkyard and managing to find exactly what I was after.

On balance, it’s probably a little bit wasteful to carry around that donut spare, when both manufacturers say you don’t need it.  Mostly.  But in the end, I realized the internal inconsistency of stocking a car with disaster preparedness supplies (Post #1628), and then not having any functioning spare.  So I spent a bit of money to fix that.

Case closed.

Post #1932: The death of my electric vehicle has been greatly exaggerated.

 

I bought a 2020 Chevy Bolt about two weeks back. It’s an electric vehicle with a roughly 250-mile range.  I did my research. Waited for prices to drop.  Got a pretty good deal on a low-mileage car. I think.  Post #1924 summarizes that.

Post #1924: I bought a Chevy Bolt.

And wouldn’t you know it, the very next week the news was full of horror stories about what a bad idea EVs are, owing to poor performance in the cold.  Long lines at public chargers, people being stranded, people getting towed.  The whole nine yards.  This, accompanied by the usual sneering comments from John Q Public.

OMG, did I just make a huge mistake? Continue reading Post #1932: The death of my electric vehicle has been greatly exaggerated.

Post #1926: A Prius driver takes a pass on Chevy Bolt “one-pedal driving”.

 

Do electric vehicles (EVs) get rear-ended more often than conventional cars do?

They certainly should.

That’s my conclusion after trying out the “one-pedal driving” mode on my new (used) 2020 Chevy Bolt.   And working through the logical consequences of it.

The practical bottom line of this post is that you should think twice before you tailgate an EV in traffic.  Because the chances are good that they can stop a whole lot faster than you can.   And may give you less warning when they do.

Not convinced?  Keep reading the parts in red, below.


Words do not do it justice: An accurate description of one-pedal driving mode.

Source:  Yeah, I know it’s a front-wheel-drive car.  The Gencraft AI doesn’t, though.  Almost all pictures here are courtesy of Gencraft.

Here’s your typical bland one-sentence description of one-pedal driving mode:  “With one-pedal driving, the car has enhanced regenerative braking, and will begin to slow as soon as you ease up on the gas (accelerator).”

Before I bought a Bolt, my reaction to that was, big deal.  Almost all modern cars do that, to a degree.  Anything with an automatic transmission slows when you take your foot off the gas.  All hybrids use regenerative braking, that is, they slow down by generating and storing electricity, reserving the friction brakes (pads pressing on rotors) as a last resort.

Some EVs can now do it more?  Whoop-te-doo.

Now that I own a Bolt, I know that description is missing a key word:  Abruptly.  Or, rapidly. Or, with great force.  Take your pick.

Taking your foot off the gas in “one-pedal” mode is nothing like taking your foot off the gas in a normal or hybrid car.  You don’t coast, at all.  You stop, pronto.  Not quite a wheels-locked panic stop.  But far faster than I normally stop, and far faster than anyone would reasonably expect me to stop in traffic.  In the Bolt, in one-pedal model, take your foot off the accelerator and you pull a few tenths of a G worth of deceleration.  Enough to pull you forward in your seat.  Enough that there’s no way I would engage that mode in snowy or icy roads.  Enough that I’d think hard about it before I turned one-pedal driving on in a driving rain.

Enough, already.  You get the point.  Here’s a more accurate description of one-pedal driving mode:

The act of lifting up on the accelerator, in one-pedal driving mode, is equivalent to pushing the brake pedal.  Hard.  Your (lack of) accelerator pedal is your brake pedal.  It’s not 100% as much force as you can get, if you actually do mash down the brakes.  But it’s an appreciable fraction of it.

You may again think, so what?  So you can, in effect, actuate the brakes, without hitting the brake pedal.  What’s the big deal?

Keep reading.


Brake lights?  We don’t need no stinkin’ brake lights.

But wait, it gets better.

Prior to mid-2023, some EVs would do that — stop fairly abruptly, in one-pedal mode — without turning on the brake lights.  And no, I’m not kidding about that.  (Reference).

The worst of those were fixed via software update, so now, all EVs on U.S. roads will now show brake lights, at some point, during some level of deceleration, in one-pedal driving mode.

As an afterthought.  Does that make you feel better about it?

But even now, an EV manufacturer’s decision on when, exactly, to show brake lights, during rapid braking in one-pedal driving mode, is entirely voluntary, and entirely up to the manufacturer, here in the U.S.A.  And for all of them, those lights turn on after the car has started slowing down.

Oddly enough, if you see this brought up on-line, you’ll see nothing but apologists for it.  Ah, cars have always had ways of slowing down without showing brake lights.  Let off the gas, in an automatic-transmission car.  Downshift in a manual.  Or, if you’re a jerk, hit the parking brake to stop, to fake out the folks behind you.

But those events were either mild in nature (automatic transmission), or rare and mild (nobody in the U.S. drives a manual these days, and nobody in the last 50 years has been dumb enough to wear out their clutch rather than brake pads by routinely slowing the car by downshifting).  Or required outright malice, like using a hand brake to stop.

Now, by contrast, you’re putting out a whole fleet of cars, for Joe and Jane Driver, all of which are designed to be driven without touching the brakes.  Designed to allow for substantial rates of deceleration without using the actual brake pedal.  And for which the decision about whether, or when, to turn on the brake lights at some point during that one-pedal deceleration, is an option for the manufacturer to decide. 

Let me offer a clear contrast to what you are used to, in a traditional gas car.  There, the brake lights are designed to light the instant you rest your foot on the brake pedal.  Brake lights are actuated by a switch that typically sits directly above the metal bar holding the brake pedal.  That switch has a fine adjustment on it.  You literally fine-tune-it so that the tiniest movement of the brake pedal closes the switch.  Even the lightest possible braking pressure will turn on your brake lights.  Properly adjusted, you literally turn on the brake lights before the brake pads make contact with the rotors.

So we now have a mixed fleet of cars on the road.  For 99% of them, the brake lights illuminate as soon as the driver puts on the brakes.  For the remaining 1%, the lights may come on at some point, after the driver has “put on the brakes”, assuming the rate of deceleration exceeds the manufacturer-specified threshold.

Yeah, what could possibly go wrong with that?


Braking distance versus stopping distance.

Definitions:  Both terms apply to panic stops.  Braking distance is how far your car travels, from the moment that you’ve firmly stomped on the brakes, until you reach a complete stop.  Stopping distance, by contrast, is that, plus the distance you travel during your “reaction time”, that is, the time it takes to say “oh shit”, move your foot off the gas, and hit the brakes.

Honking the horn is optional, but highly recommended here in Northern Virginia.

Now for just a bit of math.

1:  It takes about three-quarters of a second to lift your foot off the gas, and put it on the brake, in a panic stop.  That’s in addition to the initial reaction time — the time it takes you to realize you need to stop quickly.  (Estimates vary, that’s my reading of the literature on the subject.)

2:  At 30 miles per hour, in that amount of time, a car moves about two car lengths.  (Calculated as (30 MPH *5280 FT/MI *(0.75/(60*60) HOURS) = ) 33 feet.

3:  EVs in one-pedal driving mode can initiate an abrupt stop without moving their foot to the brake pedal.

My takeaway from all that is that EVs in one-pedal driving mode should be able to panic-stop somewhere around a couple of car lengths shorter than traditional cars.  That’s not due to better brakes, or better drivers.  That occurs because they begin to brake rapidly before they even move their foot to the brake pedal.

Yeah, what could possibly go wrong with that?


Summary

Shorter stopping distance is just dandy if you’re driving an EV in one-pedal mode.  But maybe isn’t such a plus for the person in a standard vehicle, tailgating an EV in one-pedal mode.

If you are in traffic, behind an EV in one-pedal mode, and the EV in front of you makes a panic stop, you need to be aware that, compared to a conventional car or hybrid:

1: That EV is inherently capable of stopping faster.

2: That EV will give you less time to realize it is stopping.

And nothing about that car will give you the faintest hint that those two factors are in play.

You’ve been warned.


Background:  Regenerative braking the Toyota way, or why Bolt one-pedal mode does me more harm than good.

We changed the brake pads on my wife’s 2005 Toyota Prius sometime around 140,000 miles.  Up to that point, the brakes hadn’t needed any attention.

The crazy thing is, that’s not even brag-worthy.  Going 100K miles between brake jobs is normal for any car with regenerative braking.

The Prius has regenerative braking.  To the greatest extent possible, the car slows down by turning itself into an electric generator.  It converts the forward momentum of the car to electricity, which then charges the traction battery.  Cars with regenerative braking routinely go 100,000 miles between brake jobs.  So says the U.S. DOE.

No material efficiency gains — for me.

The reason for the low brake wear in a Prius is that almost all the braking energy is done electrically.  In an ideal gentle stop, the friction brakes only kick in below about 5 MPH.  (If your rotors have surface rust, and your windows are open, you can hear that happen until you knock the rust off the rotors.)

In an idealized stop from 30 MPH to zero, you can easily calculate the fraction of braking “power dissipation” accounted for by electrical generation versus friction brakes.  Kinetic energy goes as the square of the speed, so, in a hypothetical gentle stop from 30 MPH to 0 MPH, where the friction brakes only handle the part below 5 MPH, the fraction of braking energy is:

Friction fraction of braking energy = 5-squared/30-squared = 25/900 = ~3%

Electrical Fraction of braking energy = 1 – friction fraction = 97%.

In other words, with a reasonably gentle stop, in typical suburban traffic, regenerative braking (Toyota-style) converts about 97% of the car’s forward momentum to electricity.  You don’t get to keep all of that, because there are losses in the electric motor/generators, the wires and charging electronics, and in charging the battery.  Maybe you keep 80% of that, or so.

One rationale offered for EV one-pedal driving is that it improves efficiency by recapturing more of the potentially available energy from braking the car.  That’s because you can literally bring the car to a full stop, and so, in theory, capture 100% of the car’s forward momentum and convert it to electricity.  Of which, again, you might be able to keep and use maybe 80%, after all the relevant losses are factored in.

And that’s the main reason that Bolt one-pedal driving does more-or-less nothing for my driving efficiency.  Because, despite what you may read, the Bolt’s regenerative braking does more-or-less the exact same thing as the Prius, during moderate stops.  In normal (not one-pedal) driving, when I take my foot off the gas, the car begins to recapture energy through regeneration.  And when I push gently on the brake, it begins to capture even more energy through regeneration.  Just like a Prius.  (All you have to do is look at the dashboard, as you brake, to see that this is true.)  And in a normal, gentle stop, with rusty rotors, you can hear the Bolt friction brakes engage at about the same speed as the Prius — about 5 MPH.

I guess if you drive like a bat out of hell, regenerative braking can improve your efficiency somewhat.  Plausibly, those who routinely make quick stops can benefit from converting more of the stop to electricity, before the friction brakes kick in.

But my driving habits were formed during the Arab Oil Embargoes/energy crises of the 1970s.  And I’m cheap, to boot.  So I try to avoid rapid stops.

My gut reaction, from reading about this, is that the real fan-boys for one-pedal driving are, in fact, those who want to drive like a bat out of hell.  They like it for the “sporty” feel, and how it lets them zip around all that much faster.  Which, to me, makes the whole “efficiency” argument kind of silly.  If you drive that way, clearly efficiency isn’t your goal.  You’d get more miles per KWH by not trying to drive the Bolt like a sports car.

So, from my perspective, as far as efficiency goes, one-pedal driving provides a marginal improvement in efficiency, for those with habitually inefficient driving styles.  Turning that around, if you’re a laid-back driver by nature, you ain’t going to get much additional efficiency out of one-pedal driving, beyond what you get from regenerative braking in “normal” driving mode.

Extras for experts, 1:  There is one weird final twist on this, in that, in a hybrid, regenerative braking doesn’t much matter.  It might typically add just 2% to the vehicle’s overall efficiency.  That’s from a combination of factors.  First, even with the efficient Atkinson-cycle engine of a Prius, you start off by wasting 60% of the energy in the gasoline.  Second, with relatively small electric motor/generators, and most importantly a relatively small battery, the amount of regenerative braking force — the amount of current you can safely generate and squeeze into the battery, without damaging anything — is highly limited.   So for the U.S. EPA drive cycle, with its extended periods of fast stop-and-go driving, you tend to show only a modest amount of energy recapture, as a fraction of the total energy used by the vehicle.

In an EV, by contrast, regenerative braking is a much higher contributor to overall vehicle efficiency, as the Federal government measures it.  First, unlike a hybrid, all the inefficiency in converting fossil fuels to electricity is “off the books”, so to speak.  That occurs at your local utility, not in your car.  The calculation of overall car efficiency starts with charging it, so as a whole the vehicle appears to have vastly less total wasted energy, than a hybrid does.  Second, with large motors and much larger battery, you can safely put more current into the battery.  Thus, in a hard stop, an EV can likely capture more of the energy than an hybrid can, prior to applying the friction brakes.

Old dog, new trick — look ma, no brakes!

The first thing about Toyota-style regenerative braking is that it’s absolutely seamless.  In the best case, you wouldn’t even guess that the car had this feature.  Only if you listen very closely, and brake very slowly, can you discern the point at which the friction brakes are engaged.

The second thing about Toyota-style regenerative braking is that hybrids with regenerative braking behave exactly the same as any non-hybrid car with automatic transmission.  Take your foot off the gas, and the car begins to slow just a little bit, just like any other automatic-transmission car (then) on the road.  The harder you push on the brake pedal, the more braking force you get.

Regeneration in the Bolt, by contrast, feels nothing like a normal car in this regard.  It is far more aggressive, even in normal (not one-pedal) mode.  Take your foot off the gas in a Bolt, and you slow much faster than you would in a standard car with automatic transmission, or in a typical hybrid.  I have already had to break myself of the long-learned habit of lifting my foot from the gas when I see a red light ahead.  On the roads around here, If I were to do that in a Bolt, I’d come to a dead stop long before I make it to the light.

But I can live with that.  I lift my foot, eyeball the dash, and look for the something close to zero KW going into or out the battery.  It’s hardly a life-changing difference in driving technique.  Not after I had to re-learn driving for the Prius Prime, and its preference for constant-power (instead of constant-force) acceleration (Post #1618:  There ain’t no disputin’ Sir Isaac Newton).

But switching to one-pedal driving has one potentially life-changing difference:  You may lose the instinct to put your foot on the brake.  If you never need to panic stop, you can literally drive the car in one-pedal mode and never touch the brake.   (Some one-pedal fans brag about doing exactly that.)

So do I, as a 65-year-old guy, now want to train myself to drive in one-pedal mode?  This, when the approach to driving is so different from our other car (a Prius).  And this, where driving in this new style means basically to ignore the brake pedal.

Short answer, no.  Sooner or later, in NoVA traffic, I’m going to have to do a panic stop.  And when that happens, that panic stop happens on instinct.  It took me close to 20 years to get used to ABS, and to lose the instinct to release the brakes in response to a skid, and just keep my foot mashed to the floor.  I really, really don’t want to lose the instinct that tells me to hit the brakes in an emergency-stop situation.

So, it’s not that I couldn’t learn this new trick.  It’s that I probably shouldn’t.  Not with driving two different cars.  And not with my recent entry into geezerhood.  Better to leave sleeping dogs lie.

The Prius Gene

This is a true story.  We bought our first Prius in 2005.  The same week that we bought ours, hundreds of miles away, with no communication between us, one of my brothers also bought his first Prius.

We’re now a two-Prius family.  I think my brother and his wife have been a three-Prius family, with one going off to Prius heaven as a result of a freak highway accident.

My brother says the exact same thing about his Prius, as I say about ours:  It pushes all my buttons, in just the right way.  From the super-smooth acceleration with no gear shifts, to the dashboard feedback on mileage, pretty much everything about the car says “relax, chill, enjoy the drive”.

Maybe we both like that because that’s pretty much the way my dad drove.  Maybe we inherited the genes that give us that bent.  In any case, it seems to run in the family.

It takes some work to drive a Bolt as if you were puttering along in a Prius.  But for whatever reason, by golly, that’s how I choose to drive it.

So, no one-pedal mode for me.  It’s insufficiently Prius-like.

Post #1925: Bolt EV, party like it’s 1999.

 

The last car that I bought, before buying a used Bolt a) had a manual transmission, b) had a CD player, c) had no USB ports, not even for charging, and d) could only communicate with the outside world via the OBD-II port, as God and the U.S. EPA intended.

And, needless to say, ran on gasoline.

Continue reading Post #1925: Bolt EV, party like it’s 1999.