Posts about gardening and related topics, such as canning and maybe other aspects of food preservation.
In prior posts, I showed the creation of a core bed (Post #G21-008), and I explained why I planted my summer squash far earlier than is typically prudent (Post #G21-011).
Now I want a simple way to keep that garden bed warmer at night, with a working goal being to keep the air temperature at or above 50 degrees Farenheit. (Because that’s the temperature where many garden plants cease to grow.) Continue reading Post #G21-012: Warming a raised bed at night, part 1: Floating row cover does nothing
I planted my summer squash yesterday. That’s more than a bit too early, by almost any reckoning. In this post I explain why I did that.
Briefly, planting later is not unambiguously better, in this case. On the one hand, I want to avoid the last frost at the start of the growing season. That part, everybody gets. On the other hand, I want to avoid certain pests at the end of my growing season. Based on my experience last year, I’m going to pull up my summer squash when the squash vine borer appears, rather than expend a lot of effort trying to fight it.
The key fact is that the warmer the spring, the earlier various pests will appear. So the clock is ticking. A warm spring gives me the opportunity to get these plants into the ground sooner, but it also brings on the mid-summer pests sooner.
It’s not so much that I have a potential start date for the season, and I can start growing any time after that. It’s more that I have a defined window for the season. And if it is going to be a warm spring, the longer I wait past the true last frost date this year, the closer I get to the other end of the window.
Tomatoes and peppers and such, they can still inside for a while yet. But for varieties where mid-summer emergence of pests limits my season, I’m going to take a gamble.
Edit on 4/16/2021: There’s now a little addendum on yet other non-Ball lids, and other re-usable lids, available as alternatives to Ball disposable lids.
This is my third and probably last post on the 2021 canning lid shortage. I’m going to use it to talk about Tattler lids. I bought some back in 2011, and I’ve used them off and on since.
I want to make two simple points.
1: The increase in the price of Ball disposable lids makes the Tattler lids more attractive from a cost-benefit standpoint.
2: The Tattler lids are a little “fussier” because the seal is a separate rubber ring. But they aren’t hard to use. Continue reading Post #G21-010: Ball lid shortage and Tattler lids
See post #G21-013. Looks like seasonal shipments of canning supplies have begun. In Vienna, VA, lids are back in stock. (Or, at least, were as of 4/18/2021).
See Post #G21-003 for the background. In a nutshell, it’s hard to get lids for home canning right now. If you can find them, your choice is between expensive (name-brand) and potentially inferior (foreign-made). (If you doubt that inferior part, read some of the reviews on Amazon.) And, of course, the predators are out in full force, so you will see people offering to sell you lids for more than the cost of a “set” (jar+ring+lid).
I’ve now done a little shopping locally, and tracked the trends for on-line sources, and it’s time to update that prior post.
It’s clear that the situation is getting worse, but I stand by what I said in my prior post. To me, it looks like the U.S. manufacturer hasn’t yet started shipping to major retailers for the 2021 canning season. And so, I think that most of what we’re seeing right now is still the aftereffect of the 2020 canning season.
If that’s true, then things are going to continue to get worst, right on up to the point where the seasonal shipments start for the 2021 canning season. And that that point, I expect to see lids available again.
That’s a guess. But that’s still my best guess.
Details follow. This turned out to be a long post. I cover the topics listed below. I’ve put the headings in red so you can just scroll down and find them.
Continue reading Post #G21-009: Canning lid shortage revisited.
Today it took me about an hour to convert a 4′ x 16′ raised bed into a “core bed”. That’s a bed with a considerable amount of straw buried in a trench running down the middle of the bed. In theory, the straw core will retain water and reduce or eliminate the need for watering. I’ve set it up so that I can pipe water directly into the core, so that if I do need to water it, I can do that in next-to-no-time.
If you just want to see the construction, go to the next section. Continue reading Post #G21-008: Building a plumbed core bed.
I’ve finally decided how I’m going to irrigate most of my garden beds this year. I thought I’d write it up, briefly, while I wait for the rain to clear. No pictures, no references, just words.
The back story: I have about 500 gallons’ worth of rain barrels, located some distance from my various vegetable beds, and more-or-less level with them. And last year, it was a real chore to get the water from those barrels to my vegetable beds. That’s only enough water to put maybe 1″ on all my beds. But it weighs upwards of two tons. With a small submersible pump and some two-gallon watering cans, I managed it last year. But I can’t say I was looking forward to repeating that this year.
I can, in theory, do what normal people do and water the garden with tap water. At some point each year, I seem to run out of rain water and end up doing that. But I like to avoid it, mostly because some plants can’t tolerate the chloramines in the municipal water. (Peas, for example, bleach when watered with Town of Vienna tap water.) So I have to use an activated-charcoal filter to remove the chloramines if I water with tap water.
(Plus, I just plain don’t like giving my town any more money than I absolutely have to. It’s a long story. But that’s yet another reason to avoid watering from the outdoor spigot.)
This year, I want to do something smarter with my rain barrels. After having looked at my options, and tested a few, I’m going to do something a little out of the ordinary. I’m going to convert my raised beds to core beds. Continue reading Post #G21-007: Core bed irrigation.
You can read about garden successes anywhere. This is a post about three garden mistakes. Continue reading Post #G21-006. Mustard, kale, and potato mistakes.
This is a short note on something that I’m sure is obvious to most seasoned gardeners, but not to me. I’ll try to keep it short.
Edit: My wife informs me that this is more-or-less incomprehensible. Let me try to boil it down and save you the trouble of reading the full post.
A last-frost date tells you how likely you are to lose frost-sensitive plants if you blindly set them out on that date. For example, the Old Farmers Almanac gives you the “70th percentile” last frost date, meaning, if you set your plants out on that date, there’s a 30 percent chance a frost will come along and kill them.
But if you don’t just set them out blindly on that date, and instead pay attention to the seven-day forecast on that date, you actually have a much lower chance of having your plants killed by frost. Because, a) seven-day forecasts are pretty good and b) if frost is in the forecast, on that date, you’ll have the good sense not to set your plants out (duh).
The only real insight here is that, in effect, the labels attached to those last-frost dates — the likelihood you’ll lose your plants to frost — are wrong. (Or, really, they are only correct if you’re dumb enough to go ahead and plant with frost in the forecast). The forecast lets you see with good accuracy seven days into the future, nobody is dumb enough to set out their tomatoes with frost in the forecast, and the combination of those two factors means that your actual risk of having frost kill your plants is much lower than the label on that date would suggest.
In my case (Vienna, VA, Zone 7), what’s labeled as the 70th percentile last frost date (nominal 30% risk of having frost kill my plants) actually only carries a 10% risk of having frost kill my plants. And that’s because, on that date, you’ve got a real-time seven-day look into the future via the weather forecast.
I think that’s now all completely obvious. As I say, the only real insight here is that the labels on the dates are, in a practical sense, wrong. Those labels (e.g., 70th percentile) come from simply tabulating the last frost dates for the prior three decades. They don’t account for the fact that you’ll have the good sense to wait, if frost is in the forecast as of that date. And the second but important insight is that those labels are quite a bit wrong. Just having the common sense to check the seven-day forecast (in my location) cuts that nominal 30 percent risk of frost damage down to 10 percent.
Two caveats: The size of this “forecast” effect depends on where you live. In some areas, the spread between these percentile last-frost dates is larger than it is here in Vienna, VA. And, this doesn’t help you if the planting instructions tell you to (e.g.) plant two weeks before the last-frost date. That’s outside the forecast window (or, at least, the reasonably-accurate-forecast window.) This is really just about plants that should be planted directly after the last-frost date.
Back to the original and now totally unnecessary post. You might want to read the final addendum, because if you actually work through the logic here, the likelihood of frost killing your plants is even lower than what I just said.
Edit 2024: The approach I describe in this post worked well, but it looks bad in the kitchen. In the end, I replaced my crude compost holder with the smallest kitchen compost holder I could find, the three-quart OXO model (Amazon reference). That still forces me to empty it every few days, and as long as I rinse it (outside), there’s been no odor in the kitchen.
This is a brief note on everybody’s favorite topic, rotting garbage. I mean, composting kitchen waste.
Our household generates a fair amount of compostable kitchen waste It’s nothing unusual: Vegetable peels, coffee grounds, and the like. But it’s enough volume that it’s well worth composting for the garden.
Over the years, I’ve tried a variety of methods for composting my kitchen waste. All the ones I used to use were failures, to a greater or lesser degree.
Sometime the failure was due to the equipment. But more often, it was operator error. Because, when you get right down to it, who in their right mind wants to deal with composting kitchen waste? It’s way too easy to say “I’ll take the compost out tomorrow”, particularly if it’s a nasty job. And if you ignore a composting system that needs some TLC, it’ll let you know about it.
It was only when I more-or-less gave up on the gizmos and the tricks that I stumbled across a system that works for me. It was really a question of channeling my inner sloth. So I thought I’d share what finally worked for me. Continue reading Post G21-004: Low-effort three-season kitchen compost system
I grew potatoes for the first time last year. Just a 4′ x 4′ test plot in a little raised bed filled with loose soil, essentially Mel’s Mix ™.
Based on that small trial, I’m sold. Almost no work, almost no pests. Great yield of calories per square foot. Keeps well.
And tastes good. Fresh potatoes taste better than potatoes that have been sitting around for a year. Who would have guessed?
I now want to scale that up to a much larger garden plot at the back of my yard.
Continue reading Post #1073: No-dig potatoes as value-destroying gardening.
